Coffee Profile – Brazilian Daterra Cerrado

Coffee_homepage boxby Rob Stewart

I have often wondered what would happen to the world if Brazil stopped producing coffee – perhaps a catastrophic melt down! The price for coffee per kilo would go up, making a cup of coffee cost more than a cocktail at a night club, sounding the death knell of the majority of cafes and coffee companies.  Shift workers, parents, students, productivity, and Italy would all come to a grinding halt. It would affect our economy and our way of life, leaving everyone with one giant headache.

The reality is that Brazil produces 30% the world’s coffee and the only country that comes close is Vietnam, producing about 14% [much of it robusta].  Brazil has been producing coffee that has formed the foundation of coffee brands throughout world. A typical Brazilian coffee doesn’t tend to have many predominate flavour notes that dominate the palate like Central American coffees do, instead they produce fantastic  crema, body and add sweetness, which are all characteristics used when building the base of an espresso blend.

Coffee is not native to Brazil, the first seeds were smuggled there back in 1727 from French Guiana and since then the industry has ebbed and flowed, enduring devastating frosts and drought to dominating the world’s consumption.  Brazil’s growing regions include Sāo Paulo, Minas Gerais, Paranā and Mogiana.

There is a pocket in the Minas Gerais region called Cerrado which is where you will find a company called Daterra: currently producing some of the most exciting coffees you are ever likely to come across. Daterra epitomises what a modern coffee plantation should be: innovative, experimental, sustainable and inspiring. They possess certifications such as Rainforest Alliance and UTZ and are also leaders in organic farming, environmental preservation and social standards for their workers and their community.  But the ace up Daterra’s sleeve is when it comes to quality assurance. Daterra has developed the Penta® system; an elaborate series of technological procedures that follow the coffee from seed to shipping that eliminates defects and ensure that only the best beans make the cut.

Daterra has two locations in Brazil, the Cerrado and the other in the Mogiana region and they have been growing coffee there since the early 80’s. They grow a number of varieties such as Mundo Novo, Bourbon, Typica, Caturra and Red and Yellow Icatu and produce single origins, reserves (being the best of each crop), experimental varieties and Collections which are blends of the various varieties they grow.

The Sweet Collection from the Bourbon cultivar is, I believe, the finest examples of their range. When I first cupped this coffee I was hit by an intense rock candy and mandarin aroma, followed by the sweetness of caramel and honey. The body of the Sweet Collection is well pronounced without being overbearing and the acidy is delicate with a spicy twist. I find this coffee works well across all brewing methods and but in practice the plunger is best, as it accentuates the rock candy notes. Milk based drinks will highlight the sweetness and bring out a vanilla flavour and it’s definitely a coffee you can happily sit and drink a few cups of. I prefer any Brazilian coffee roasted on the lighter side as they have a tendency, if roasted too dark, to leave an ashy aftertaste and this is no exception; try peppering it with a little Kenya or any of the Central Americans – particularly a Costa Rican – to make the cup really come to life, or just enjoy it as a single origin!

The Coffee

Location: Brazil, Cerrado region
Estate: Daterra
Plant Type: Arabica Bourbon
Process: pulped natural

Cup Profile

Fragrance/Aroma: rock candy, mandarin
Flavour: caramel and honey
Aftertaste: clean and subtle
Acidity: low and spicey
Body: medium, persistent

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One Response to “Coffee Profile – Brazilian Daterra Cerrado”

  1. Featured Bean of the Week: Brasil Daterra Farms “Sunflower” | The Black Drop Coffee House Says:

    [...] Crema Magazine: There is a pocket in the Minas Gerais region called Cerrado which is where you will find a company [...]

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